Variations in Fashion Between France and England In wartime between and the female waistline lengthened in England.
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It was usually fur trimmed, straight in cut, belted at a high waist like the gown and sported a broad cape like collar an influence of military styles. The colours for pelisses were golden brown, dark green and blue. The Pelisse was normally worn over pale gowns which were visible as it was worn open at the front. From onwards women wore a coat dress variation called a pelisse-robe. It could be suitable for indoors or outdoors and was essentially a sturdy front fastening carriage, walking or day dress.
By in Britain, influence of the Middle Ages, termed Gothic crept into dress styles debasing the pure classical lines. The bodice gained more shaping and could be panelled. It was not cut as tight and narrow as in the first decade of the century, so it made the shoulder line broader and the dress more comfortable to wear. The flowing medieval touches soon broadened to include Tudor and Elizabethan times with ruffed and Vandyke triangular pointed decoration and cross over bodices.
In England copious trimmings on skirts were all the rage from flounces and padded rolls to pleated, fanned and tucked trims. Embellishment was according to the latest fashion which sometimes took its own course due to the hostilities between France and Britain. By the dress had lost all classical form and took on a pure Gothic line which lasted until Queen Victoria's accession.
In wartime between and the female waistline lengthened in England. English ladies really had little idea of what was happening to Paris fashion. When visitors from Britain returned to France after the peace treaty they were amazed that fashions were so different. In Paris waists were worn very much higher than in those of Regency England and skirt hems were wider, more A-line, padded and decorated.
British fashion soon followed the French lead after the French ridiculed the English dresses in cartoons making them appear very ugly with bulbous tulip round waisted skirts and solid corsetry. In with the Napoleonic wars over, Britain began to follow French fashion trends for wearing a high waistline. The waistline reached its peak height in when the line fell directly under the breasts.
Almost as soon as the waist had risen, fashion plates began to show the waistline dropping and tightening. It continued to drop annually by an inch, until by it was at last in its normal position. All these wider skirt silhouettes show decorative interest, an ornamentation in keeping with Gothic over embellishment. Leroy the French designer had to follow the whims of his clients and drop the dress waists and widen the skirts.
It seems that French ladies soon preferred the English style. Anglomania began to sweep France. After as the neat slim waist emerged, corsets were worn again by all women. The narrower buckle belted day waist or sash wrapped evening waist was balanced by widening skirts which were often horsehair padded and frilled to make them stand away from the legs.
By the wider skirts were balanced by a wider shoulder line with a leg of lamb sleeve often known as a gigot sleeve as seen in the central pink dress. This had begun as a short sleeve which had been covered over by a transparent or semi opaque sleeve as the pastel pink evening dress shows, and eventually such sheer sleeves became a solid fabric.
The semi opaque sleeve was the forerunner of all manner of fancy sleeve styles setting the scene for more romantic dress styles of the s.
The Spencer was a short top coat without tails worn by men during the s as an extra covering over the tailed coat. It had long sleeves and was frequently decorated with military frogging. Its originator is thought to be Earl Spencer who singed the tails of his coat when standing beside a fire.
He then had the tails trimmed off and started a fashion. A female version was soon adopted by gentlewomen who at the time were wearing the thin light muslin dresses of the s. The Spencer was worn as a cardigan or shrug is worn today.
It was a short form of jacket to just above waist level cut on identical lines to the dress. Right - A Lady Wearing a Spencer to read. A Spencer was perfect to keep chills away. Left - A very cropped short high waisted Regency Spencer of The Spencer was worn both indoors and outdoors and for eveningwear and was made of silk or a wool material known as kerseymere. When it was worn as an indoor evening Spencer it was called a canezou.
Spencers stayed in fashion for about 20 years whilst the waistline remained high. This lemon Regency Spencer is from a fashion plate of This Spencer also has Gothic and military overtones with its decorative work.
Areas of Spencers back and front were decorated with braids and cording. Italian quilting was popular as it created a raised surface pattern. When the waist slowly began its drop on dresses so did the waist of the Spencer as in this illustration of the cerise Spencer circa As the fashion for military touches persisted, many Pelisses and Spencers were covered in decorative braids, tassels, frogging and cords, as a result their wearers looked like members of the Hussars.
Its name derives from the 18 th century version of a riding coat. It was used in place of a loose cloak and as it developed a series of shoulder capes it became very suitable for travel.
As dresses widened so the Redingote widened. Redingotes were usually trimmed with fur and mostly made of heavy dark cloth. Just look for items sold and shipped by Amazon. Previous Page 1 2 Women's Dresses on Amazon That feeling you get when you slip on the perfect dress?
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